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"Reverse Photoageing: Achieve Rejuvenated Skin with Chemical Peels" [chemical peel for photodamaged skin]

Writer's picture: Dr Salison Salim PanickerDr Salison Salim Panicker

Updated: Nov 8, 2024

While it's easy to attribute skin ageing solely to the passage of time, the sun significantly influences the changes we observe in our skin. Photoageing refers to the damage caused by exposure to UV rays, leading to premature skin ageing and an increased risk of skin cancer. UV rays are responsible for up to 90% of visible signs of ageing.

Each person experiences photoageing differently, but common symptoms include:

  • Pigmentation changes: Melasma, sunspots, or age spots

  • Wrinkles: As classified by the Glogau Scale

  • Vascular changes: Broken blood vessels, redness, blotchiness

  • Loss of elasticity: Resulting in reduced skin tone

  • Texture changes: Rough, leathery skin

  • Color changes: Yellowish tint to the skin

Treatment

To manage and treat photoageing, consider the following approaches:

  • Sun protection: Use broad-spectrum sunscreen, wear protective clothing, and avoid peak sun hours.

  • Topical treatments: Retinoids, antioxidants (like vitamin C), and moisturizers can help repair and protect the skin.

  • Professional treatments: Chemical peels, laser therapy, and microdermabrasion can reduce pigmentation and improve skin texture.

  • Healthy lifestyle: Maintain a balanced diet, stay hydrated, and avoid smoking to support overall skin health.



chemical peel for photodamaged skin

lets discuss how chemical peel works for photodamaged skin, it involves the application of a chemical agent that wounds the epidermis and/or dermis and stimulates collagen remodeling and new epidermal growth, thus achieving a cosmetic benefit. The degree of penetration determines the level of peeling.

Superficial peeling agents remove the stratum corneum and wound the epidermis. Destruction of the entire epidermis defines a full superficial peel.

Medium-depth peels penetrate through the papillary dermis to the upper reticular dermis.

Deep peeling agents wound a greater portion of the reticular dermis resulting in production of new collagen and ground substances.


image show layers of skin , different chemical peels , superfivcial , deep , medium peels and how they affect different layers
layers of skin with diferent peels for different depth

Superficial peels disrupt corneocyte adhesion and lead to regeneration of a thickened epidermis, normalization of the basal cell layer and dispersal of melanin. Agents also enact dermal changes , increase dermal collagen and improve quality of elastic fibres, complete recovery in 3-4 days

Indication- Acne, comedonal acne, enlarged pores, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, mild photo damage,and fine textural concerns, [Glogau stage 1]

Agents

  1. 10-20% TCA, 20-30% TCA for complete epidermal peel

  2. Jessner solution-[ 14% salicylic acid, 14% lactic acid, 14% resorcinol in ethanol]

  3. Resorcinol

  4. Salicylic acid

  5. Alpha hydroxy acid- Glycolic acid

  6. Phenol


Salicylic acid

Naturally occurring Beta hydroxy acid from bark of willow tree

Best for all skin types

Lipophilic nature for effective dissolution of stratum corneum as well as comedolytic.

For comedonal , papular , pustular acne.[ superior to TCA]

Also for dyschormasia - Salicylic acid is preferred for treating dyschromia due to its low inflammatory properties, which minimizes the risk of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation


Glycolic acid peel

α-Hydroxy acids include glycolic acid along with several other naturally, occurring, nontoxic agents such as lactic, citric, malic, and tartaric acid.

Glycolic acid concentrations of 10% to 70% are frequently used in the treatment of acne, dyschromias, and mild signs of photoaging, and are safe in most skin types.

Unlike other superficial peeling agents, the action of glycolic acid is time dependent and must be neutralized with normal saline, water, or sodium bicarbonate.

α-Hydroxy acids wound the skin via loss of keratinocyte cohesion within the epidermis.

Peels using 70% glycolic acid can also result in increased fibroblast proliferation, collagen and elastic fiber formation, and melanin dispersion.


Superficial chemical peels are the simplest option and are most effective when performed at a 35% concentration by a specialist in facial aesthetics, plastic surgery, or dermatology. For optimal results, it's crucial to prepare the skin properly before the procedure and follow a diligent post-procedure care routine. This includes avoiding sun exposure, using a broad-spectrum sunscreen, and keeping the skin moisturized with products like hyaluronic acid.

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